The Great Sunscreen Showdown
A definitive guide to 9 of the most popular SPFs
I’m tempted to start this off with a cheeky “happy sunscreen season” comment, but my better judgment is telling me that’s not even a funny joke to make. Sunscreen knows no season! That being said, now that the sun is out and we’re photosynthesizing again, the topic of sunscreen is extra topical (pun absolutely intended). Let’s get into it.
Do you need a sunscreen?
Guys. Do I really need to say it? OBVIOUSLY you need a sunscreen. I’m serious. Aside from protecting your skin from a known carcinogen (UV radiation), sunscreen prevents burning, hyperpigmentation, and perhaps most devastatingly, wrinkle formation.
How does sunscreen work?
This sounds like a weird question, but because SPF is technically considered an OTC drug (crazy), there’s some science to be discussed here. There are two types of sunscreens: chemical and mineral.
Chemical: this type of formula works by absorbing UV rays into the skin, converting them to heat, and releasing them from the body. You’ll typically find active ingredients like avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octisalate in these.
Mineral: this type of formula sits on top of the skin and physically prevents UV rays from penetrating the skin by scattering them elsewhere. In the US, the only FDA-approved mineral sunscreen ingredients are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
People on the internet love to argue about which type of SPF is better than the other, and the truth of the matter is, they both have their pros and cons.
Chemical sunscreens tend to be more lightweight and sheer, as opposed to mineral sunscreens which are thicker by nature of how they literally block the sun’s rays. Studies have shown that some active ingredients in chemical sunscreens behave like endocrine disruptors, and the European Union has actually released reports that two of the most popular, homosalate and octocrylene, are unsafe at the concentrations being used in most* American sunscreens. Additionally, mineral sunscreens tend to cooperate better with sensitive skin, and in fact, the zinc oxide found in many of these formulas is also touted for its anti-inflammatory benefits.
Apologies for the word vomit, but hopefully that gave you a brief insight into the sunscreen landscape. Last note: sunscreen in other parts of the world (a.k.a. almost anywhere besides America) is more advanced because SPF is regulated as a cosmetic product, which allows for more innovative leeway, whereas the U.S. classifies them as drugs that require FDA approval, resulting in a long and arduous process.
What makes a good sunscreen?
As per a Vox article from last summer, “the sunscreen that’s best for you is the one you’ll actually use.” Word. And thanks to free market capitalism, there are plenty of options to choose from, with a huge variety of formulas and ingredient standards, leaving it up to the consumer to discern for themselves. Not sure why I just explained capitalism to you… Anyways, here is the criteria upon which I’m ranking sunscreens today:
Texture: I don’t like the feeling of slimy things on my face. I also don’t like the feeling of cakey lotions that sit heavily on my skin and actively clog my pores. I’m going to need something perfectly in the middle. Spoken like the real Goldilocks I am.
Coverage: A great sunscreen rubs into my skin easily, without leaving any white cast or weird pilling that makes my face appear to be shedding. I don’t really wear face makeup, but I’d want this sunscreen to work well under the concealer, at the very least.
Smell: I don’t hate the scent of sunscreen, but I also don’t love it. Straight up: some sunscreens smell crazy. I want no part in that. Just give me a sunscreen that is completely odorless, and if it absolutely has to have a scent, it better be subtle.
Because there are SO many sunscreens on the market, I’m limiting this trial to non-tinted options for equanimity and manageability. If you have strong feelings about tinted options, however, we can talk about a part two.
The Key Players
The big names in the sunscreen game.
Australian brand Ultra Violette has just made its way to the U.S. after much anticipation.
Beauty of Joseon is a Korean brand beloved by estheticians everywhere.
A longtime mineral sunscreen staple, Elta MD, has to be included.
Same with Supergoop, a brand whose sole focus is sunscreen varietals.
Another SPF-oriented brand, Dune, has also entered the running.
Pro-surfer Kelly Slater has a sunscreen brand of his own called Freaks of Nature.
Le Prunier is in your favorite crunchy wellness mom’s medicine cabinet.
You’re probably familiar with one of the best brand worlds in our modern age, Vacation, which recently came out with a face gel I’ll test out.
Brand new mineral sunscreen brand Good Weather Skin is officially ready for review.
My usual disclaimer: I can’t try every single sunscreen on the market, nor do I want to. If I missed a big one, though, please do let me know (kindly). Onwards…
Ultra Violette
During a family trip to Europe a few weeks ago, I made a pit stop in an Italian Sephora to pick up the coveted Ultra Violette Supreme Screen sunscreen. Daise Bedolla has been raving about this stuff, as has Ama Kwarteng, so I grabbed a few as souvenirs for my friends. Upon touching down at JFK, I received word that my new favorite SPF would now be available (in a slightly different, FDA-approved formula) in the States. Thank God because I don’t want to live without this stuff.
It’s a 3-in-1 sunscreen, moisturizer, and primer, which means it doesn’t dry me out like most sunscreens do. It’s light, it doesn’t pill on top of my moisturizer and the scent has hints of caramel. IDK, I call it like I see it. Or smell it. Whatever. Moral of the story: the Supreme Screen 50+ is a hall of fame product for me and I love her dearly.
Price: $36
SPF Stats: Chemical, 50
Hero Ingredients: Avobenzone 3%, Homosalate 7%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 8%
Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️/5
Elta MD
Elta MD is a category kingpin, one of the first genuinely good contemporary sunscreens beloved by dermatologists, estheticians, MUAs, celebrities, you name it. It’s a textbook sunBLOCK; definitely on the thicker side with a bit of that traditional sunscreen scent. It personally doesn’t leave a white cast on my face, but that is because my skin is already pretty white (lol).
While it’s not the sexiest option, nor the one I would reach for in my current routine, I have to give it immense praise for getting me through the worst bouts of my perioral dermatitis. Not only did it not irritate my skin during a time when literally everything else did, it visibly reduced the redness around my mouth, and for that I am eternally grateful.
Price: $44
SPF Stats: Mineral, 46
Hero Ingredients: Zinc Oxide 9.0%, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid
Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️/5
Supergoop
I’ll never not associate Supergoop with How I Built This, so in my mind it’s peak startup girlboss sunscreen (non-derogatory). I’ve heard the most praise for their Unseen Sunscreen, so I decided to give it a go.
It has a gel-like consistency, which is my nice way of saying that it’s slimy. If you like a transparent, super sheer texture, I’d say go for it. I’ve learned from this experience that it’s not my personal preference, nor is the slightly chemical-y scent.
Price: $48
SPF Stats: Chemical, 50
Hero Ingredients: Avobenzone 3%, Homosalate 7%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 9%
Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️/5
Dune
If Supergoop is the millennial main character, Dune is its Gen-Z cousin. It has cutesy packaging and playful fonts and bright colors and tongue-in-cheek taglines, all of which typically sets off my cringe radar. However. The Mineral Melt SPF is a very solid product at a great pricepoint — it’s pretty lightweight with only a faint sunscreen smell. Plus, because it has a flip cap and it’s quite compact, I’d feel comfortable throwing it in a big without fear of a sunscreen explosion.
Price: $29.95
SPF Stats: Mineral, 30
Hero Ingredients: Zinc Oxide 4.8%, Titanium Dioxide 2.34%,
Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️/5
Beauty of Joseon
I’ve heard plenty about this product from its TikTok virality, but it wasn’t until it made not one but two estheticians’ desert island skincare shortlists that I started pay more attention.
This is absolutely the best bang for your buck. It’s $18 (actually $14 right now on sale) for a 50mL bottle of sunscreen that blends into your skin seamlessly. It’s a chemical formula but it feels more like a lotion than a gel, so it absorbs into the skin like a light moisturizer and provides added hydration from the rice extract and grain-derived probiotics (whoa) as well.
I’ll be honest, because I read too much about chemical sunscreens while researching for this piece, I started to get nervous about them because a) I’d rather avoid any potential endocrine disruption if possible and b) I have very sensitive skin. But this one is in a league of its own. All of their ingredients are EWG green level certified and free from common chemical irritants like oxybenzone and octinoxate. I’m still just in shock that it’s less than $20.
Price: $18
Hero Ingredients: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract 30%, Dieethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Niacinamide
Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️/5
Freaks of Nature
Finally, a celebrity beauty brand that makes sense to me. (That was an exaggeration, but you know what I mean). Freaks of Nature makes sunscreen for “superhumans” not unlike their founder, Kelly Slater, that not only protects your skin from the sun, but helps to strengthen its natural barrier function.
I tried their Peak Performance SPF 30 Mineral Stick which I can only describe as a nugget. Rolling sunscreen on my face makes me nostalgic for summers at sleep away camp and for that reason this one has a special place in my heart. It’s a great product for on-the-go use, especially if you’re going to the beach or on a run since it’s a water resistant mineral formula (rare). I don’t think I’d put this on before my makeup, say, but it certainly has a time and place in the summer skincare collection.
Price: $24
SPF Stats: Mineral, 50
Hero Ingredients: Zinc Oxide 25%
Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️/5
Le Prunier
Let me start off by acknowledging the obvious: this is an expensive-ass sunscreen. Or rather, ‘Plumscreen.’ But the user experience here is peak luxury. It comes in a metal tube (a Plant Based favorite) and features Le Prunier’s “Plum Superfruit Complex®” derived from upcycled plum ingredients from the founders’ 100 year old family farm.
What can I say, I’m a sucker for a family farm story, and it’s probably why this sunscreen smells like sunshine. It’s light, creamy, and sinks into my skin beautifully. If you’re in the mood to ball out, I’m telling you — this sunscreen is worth it. It’s easily the best mineral formula I’ve tried.
Price: $78
SPF Stats: 31, Non-Nano Zinc Oxide 4.7%
Hero Ingredients: Plum Superfruit Complex®
Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️/5
Vacation
I have nothing but respect for what Vacation is doing creatively, and if you’ll recall, I’m a big fan of their Classic leisure-enhancing Mineral Lotion. Most of their formulas are meant for full-body use, but they’ve come out with a couple of face products including this most recent Crystal gel that I was elated to find in my Air Milkshake bag (thank you Marta!).
Like the Supergoop sunscreen, this one is on the slimier side. One of the main ingredients is aloe, so I suppose this would feel just delightful if you were mid-beach vacation and had a little too much, shall we say, fun in the sun the day prior. What Crystal lacks in texture it makes up for in scent — even though it’s fragrance-free, it still has that classic Vacation nostalgically tropical aroma that I adore.
Price: $26
SPF Stats: Chemical, 50
Hero Ingredients: Avobenzone 3.0%, Homosalate 7.3%, Octisalate 5.0%, Octocrylene 9.0%, Aloe Vera Leaf Juice
Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️.75/5
Good Weather Skin
G.W.S. launched last month with its singular product, literally called “The One.” It’s a mineral sunscreen that’s meant to hydrate and improve skin texture without any white cast or irritating ingredients.
I thoroughly enjoy this one. It’s light but still substantial enough to ensure its truly protecting your skin from the UV radiation. It doesn’t have any scent (awesome) and I can almost feel my skin just soaking in all of the extra moisture when I apply it. The founders are also just really wonderful women which is a big W in my book.
Price: $48
SPF Stats: Mineral, 30
Hero Ingredients: Zinc Oxide 15%, Niacinamide, Sea Buckthorn Oil
Rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️/5
The Big Takeaways:
If you want sunscreen with international acclaim (you should) go for Australian Ultra Violette or Korean Beauty of Joseon.
For the Gwyneth Paltrow of sunscreens, Le Prunier’s Plumscreen is the one.
Good Weather Skin is the right choice if you like to be on the cutting edge of cool new brands.
If you unironically consider yourself an amateur athlete, you’ll want the Freaks of Nature stick.
If you’re into a sheer, chemical sunscreen, Vacation’s Crystal is where I’d turn.
Now, with all the love in the world, get off your device and outside.
That’s all for now. Reply to this email or leave a comment if you want to reach me. :)
need to know what kind of sunscreen we are wearing in our bodies these days!
ok fiiiiine I’ll buy Ultra Violette