What are my Non-Toxic Nail Care Options?
Jin Soon Choi, nail artistry legend, is answering our FAQs
Manicures, in my opinion, are not fun. Not even in the slightest. And I’m someone who actually likes being poked and prodded for the sake of beauty, but, manicures are my unwavering exception to that rule. Every time I go to the nail salon, I feel bored, uncomfortable, and antsy. All I can think about is my resemblance to the shrimp man with awful posture meme.
HOWEVER. The power of a manicure is undeniable. The feeling of walking out of a salon with freshly painted nails is pretty close to euphoric. Getting a manicure is like taking a vitamin for girl bosses; few things can bring you such instant confidence. While I dread the hour (yes, let’s be honest, it’s an hour) of commitment required for the full ordeal, I tell myself “you can do hard things, Katie,” and spend my money on yet another dreadful pursuit of vanity.
What was that you asked? If I hate getting a manicure so much, why don’t I just paint my nails myself? That’s cute. Believe me, I’ve tried — nobody wants to see that. Plus, one of my key character traits is my lack of patience, a quality that bodes horribly for the entire nail painting experience.
I’ve found a few work-arounds to make the manicure process a bit more palatable. The first is by turning it into a hangout activity. When you get a manicure with your friend, you’ll inevitably feel like a Sex and The City character and compulsively share at least one piece of gossip. Because I’m entertained by my friend, I forget all about how much I don’t want to be there, which makes it a completely different experience. It also allows me to avoid spending money on a mediocre meal at a restaurant just to have a backdrop for our chit-chat. The only issue here is that you and your friend have to be at similar points in your current manicure’s lifespan, a phenomenon I refer to as cycle-syncing.
The second way to improve the manicure experience is to get gel. I know. I know. It’s not good for me. (For those who might be unfamiliar, I’m referring to the endeavor of putting your hands under concentrated UV light in order to solidify the polish.) But I had no choice. When I learned that I could spend a little longer, and a little more money, to walk out of the salon immediately after the final coat, it was game over. Plus, gel can last me three weeks without chipping, which means fewer trips to the salon.
The gel manicure was my final wellness boss. I knew it wasn’t good for my longterm hand health, but I had plenty of other habits that needed tweaking first. So I let myself continue on with my monthly UV bakes, allowing divine intervention to break the habit. I’m proud to announce to you all that the day has come.
It wasn’t an epiphany that led me to renounce my gel manicures, but rather, a confluence of factors. My anxiety about hand aging and skin cancer hit a critical mass during a powerful “this-is-a-poor-use-of-my-time” endless productivity thought loop. I’ll also admit that Gwyneth’s bare court room nails helped justify my nail salon avoidance and instill some “naked nail” confidence.
I quit gel polish cold turkey, landing here in a phase of exploration. I’m open to new better-for-you (or seemingly so) options, but truthfully, I’m so overwhelmed by the endless treatment varieties and I can’t be bothered to spend more than five minutes researching. That is, until a very highly renowned expert agreed to answer all of my (and your) questions.
Jin Soon Choi is a nail artist and a fixture of the fashion and beauty world for her work on editorial campaigns and fashion shows. She is also the founder of JINsoon nail lacquer, known for setting the standard in safe, high-performance nail care. With over 20 years of experience, she’s a leading expert in natural nail health, editorial nail trends, and non-toxic formulas. Jin’s approach is all about healthy, strong nails and treatments that never compromise safety for beauty. I’ll turn it over to her…
First off — and I don’t mean to fear-monger — but clearly traditional manicures and nail polish have some… questionable aspects. Can you explain what makes them so “bad”?
Conventional nail polishes have a history of using some pretty questionable ingredients. That’s why I made JINsoon, to eliminate all harsh chemicals. My products are 21-Free, meaning they exclude the 21 most commonly used harsh chemicals in nail polish.
Harsh chemicals can be absorbed through the nail bed or inhaled through fumes or dust when filing off existing nail polish. Some of these chemicals are actually known carcinogens! While an occasional manicure isn’t likely to cause major harm, repeated exposure increases the risk. That said, most reputable brands today avoid most of these toxic ingredients to varying extents.
On the flip side, what makes for a “non-toxic” manicure?
A non-toxic manicure means using products that eliminate or reduce harmful chemicals. Labels like 3-free, 5-free, 7-free, 10-free, and beyond indicate the number of toxic ingredients removed from the formula. JINsoon nail lacquers go even further with our 21-Free formulation, ensuring the cleanest, safest polish possible without sacrificing durability.
Another option is water-based polish, which minimizes chemical exposure even further, though they don’t always have the same longevity as traditional formulas.
Can you walk me through the differences between the more specialized manicure treatments?
(Soft Gel vs Hard Gel vs Acrylic vs Russian Manicures vs. Japanese Gel, etc.)
Soft Gel – A flexible gel that cures under UV/LED light. More natural-looking and less damaging than hard gel.
Hard Gel – Stronger than soft gel, often used for extensions. Requires filing to remove, which can weaken nails over time.
Acrylic – A mix of liquid monomer and powder that hardens into a tough layer. Long-lasting but can be harsh on natural nails if not applied or removed correctly.
Russian Manicure – A technique focusing on ultra-precise cuticle work, often using an e-file. Can look flawless but carries a higher risk of damage if done incorrectly.
Japanese Gel – A premium soft gel known for its long wear, rich pigmentation, and gentler formula. Application and removal techniques matter to minimize nail damage.
How frequently and for how long should we be letting our nails ‘breathe’?
Just to be clear, nails don’t breathe! They’re made of keratin, a protein that doesn’t require oxygen. However, giving your nails a break from polish, gel, or acrylics can prevent dehydration and excessive thinning. If you frequently wear polish, taking a polish-free week every few months or so can help maintain nail health.
Should we really be cutting or pushing cuticles?
This is one of the biggest debates in nail care. As a nail expert, my take is gently pushing cuticles back is the best approach. The cuticle acts as a protective barrier against bacteria and infections—cutting them too aggressively can lead to inflammation or even long-term damage.
The best time to push them back? After a shower or bath when they’re soft. This is why I am not a fan of dry manis. Why not let the water soak and soften your cuticles before working on them? If needed, only trim hangnails or excess skin.
What’s your recommendation for a realistic, non-toxic nail care routine?
Cleanse – Wash nails with a mild soap to remove dirt and oils.
Shape – File gently in one direction to prevent splitting.
Hydrate & Nourish – I apply JINsoon Primrose + Honeysuckle Cuticle Oil daily.
Push Back Cuticles – Never cut, just gently push after applying oil.
Trim Only If Necessary – Only snip hangnails, not the entire cuticle.
Moisturize – Hands and nails should always be hydrated; this is key to strong, flexible nails.
Strengthen – Use JINsoon HyperRepair or let nails have a break with the JINsoon Buffer & Shiner.
Diet & Hydration – A protein-rich diet and plenty of water will help nails grow healthier.
Any other simple, low-cost tips for maintaining healthy nails?
Moisturize – Any oil (even olive oil) will work in a pinch.
Wear Gloves – Protect nails from cleaning products and water exposure.
Be Gentle – Don’t use nails as tools to open things.
Overnight Hydration Hack – Apply Vaseline or thick moisturizer before bed and wear cotton gloves. My mom swore by this, and I stand by it too!
Quick Fire Myth-Busting:
Questions coming straight from the chat!
Do dark nail polishes really make your nails stronger?
Nope. The added layers may provide temporary thickness, but they don’t strengthen nails. Some polishes do contain strengthening ingredients, but color alone isn’t a factor.
When you get a Dip/SNS manicure, why do the nails get so thin and busted?
Mostly due to improper removal. Over-filing, harsh acetone soaking, and aggressive buffing damage the nail plate, leaving it thin and weak. Moisturizing post-removal is crucial.
Why are my cuticles so much nicer when I get an SNS manicure? Is it the ‘whizzy’ machine?
Not exactly. It’s the meticulous cuticle work before application that makes the difference. The “whizzy machine” (e-file) helps, but technique matters more than the tool.
What’s the deal with the Canadian brand, Gelcare? Is it the cleanest gel you can get?
“Clean” is subjective. Gelcare is HEMA-free, which reduces the risk of allergic reactions, but no brand is 100% "clean." Always check the ingredient list.
Is it possible to get a gel manicure without UV exposure?
No. All gel polishes require curing with UV or LED light. Some LED lamps emit lower levels of UV, but exposure is still necessary.
Is it better for our nails to be bare or colored?
It's better to be bare in the long run. Frequent polish use can dry out nails, but occasional wear won’t cause major issues if you keep nails hydrated and take breaks.
Do base coats that promise nail strength actually work?
It depends on the formula. A base coat alone won’t magically strengthen nails, but one with reinforcing ingredients (like JINsoon HyperRepair) can help with consistent use.
Should I cut or file?
Filing. Cutting can cause splitting, while filing (in one direction) helps maintain a smoother edge and prevents breakage.
If you do see me getting a manicure (rare), I can guarantee it will be at JINsoon. Not just because I heard a rumor that a certain ultra-chic filmmaker / Chanel collaborator / creative visionary goes there, but because it’s the best experience I’ve had at a nail studio in New York.
Food for Thought
Rounding this out with some nail-adjacent recommendations…
There’s no one whose cultural / economic / sociological theories I love more than my wonderful friend
. I didn’t realize I was abiding by the bare nail hegemony until she coined it here.The nail art that this woman does is astounding.
My nails are bare for the most part because of aforementioned overwhelm, especially now that I have Theraplush on cuticle duty (I promise it couldn’t be more worth it).
When I inevitably need a mental health manicure, I’m going for a dark blue or an oxblood. I’m team dark nail polish all year round. Unless it’s Ballet Slippers.
I made it this far without bringing up Stoned at the Nail Salon. I’ll always be a Solar Power truther.
That’s all for now. Reply to this email or leave a comment if you want to reach me. :)
i’m supposed to file only in one direction?! oops.
Manicure cycle-syncing made me giggle.