What's Everyone Spraying on Their Face?
Toners, Mists, Essences, Oh My!
Maybe it’s just me, but it feels like there’s been an uptick in sprayable skincare lately. Actually, I know it’s not just me because the “facial mist market” (…) was valued at $843 Million in 2022, and is predicted to reach $1.5 Billion by 2031.1
I only started paying legitimate attention to skincare sprays fairly recently, if I’m being honest. For a long time, I put any product in the “mist” family straight into the bullshit beauty products box in my brain’s filing system. There they sat, next to the pore strips and sheet masks, collecting dust.
Toners, essences, mists — they all felt so… unnecessary. And unenjoyable. Spraying a mysterious substance on my face reminded me of cat being punished by its owner with spray bottle, and I’d like to think I have a little more dignity than that.
Well, as you may have guessed, things have changed. I now use upwards of two sprays in my skincare routine, depending on the day. What made me convert to a pro-mist stance, you ask?
I discovered this concept known as optimism, and as a direct result, my mind opened to possibilities I would have previously written off. That includes a life beyond the traditional cleanser-serum-moisturizer skincare regimen.
When your skin gets visibly inflamed, you’ll try pretty much anything to fix it.
I stopped comparing myself to a cat because that’s weird and I decided a spray could be fun.
Still, I’m not necessarily a mist apologist. These brands are not making it easy to understand what any of this actually is, especially when labeled something irritatingly vague like “transformative mist” or “milky essence.” What? Is this a pH balancer? A hydration mechanism? Or just a physical nervous system reboot in the form of a spritz?
Good questions2, if I do say so myself. Good enough to send me down a rabbit hole, and subsequently report back my findings to you. That’s sort of the whole thing, being a journalist and all. But because I’m not an expert myself, I figured it was worth bringing in the big guns to weigh in on some of these questions. The big guns in question is none other than Kristyn Smith, founder of Practise and the unbelievable — biblical, even — facialist to the stars (including
and myself).
What is a skin mist?
“A skin mist is a lightweight, water-based spray designed to hydrate, refresh, and sometimes deliver active ingredients to the skin,” says Smith. “It’s useful throughout the day for maintaining hydration, particularly for those in dry environments like offices.”
Think of this as a dose of topical hydration, like a sip of water for your face.
What is a facial essence?
“A facial essence is a concentrated, lightweight liquid that helps hydrate the skin and enhance the absorption of subsequent skincare products,” says Smith.3 “It often contains humectants, antioxidants, and fermented ingredients to support skin health and texture.”
Think of this as a skincare foundation layer for what’s to come.
What is a toner?
A toner is “a thin, water-like formula meant to be used in between your face wash and other skincare steps to "prime" the skin for skincare.”4 Toners help to balance the skin’s pH after cleansing, removing excess oil or adding an extra dose of hydration, depending on the specific product.
Think of this as a targeted addition to a skincare routine for specific concerns.
What’s the difference between an essence and a toner?
A toner is more about cleansing — helping the skin return to its natural pH and protecting it against inflammation. An essence tends to be more focused on locking in hydration, improving the skin’s texture and preparing it for the forthcoming products.5
It’s sort of a perspective thing here. To me, a toner is on damage control, while an essence is all about planning ahead.
Why are some toners mists and some liquids?
“The difference comes down to formulation and application,” says Smith. “Misted toners tend to be hydrating and designed for easy, even application while liquid toners (applied with cotton or hands) can be hydrating, exfoliating, or astringent, depending on the formula. Some require controlled application due to active ingredients.”
What’s the deal with spray form, in general?
Smith is PRO mist technology. “I’ve always liked the idea of sprayable products because they’re great for travel, reduce cross-contamination, and make application more convenient!”
What about other miscellaneous sprays?
Sometimes a skincare product is labeled simply as a “spray” or “mist” without categorized definitively as a toner or essence. Take, for instance, Tower 28’s viral S.O.S. Spray or Sunday Riley’s Resurfacing Peptide Mist.
The haziness of these product names poses an interesting debate. On the one hand, where does this ambiguous spray fit into my existing routine? But I also see the flip side from a marketing (and human psychology) POV. As consumers — actually, as people — we like to put everything in a box. Categorization is a coping mechanism to make the world less uncertain and chaotic. But by putting products, people, etc in boxes, we make it harder to see them as the multifaceted individuals that they are. I’m a writer, but also a marketing consultant, and also a strategist, and maybe even a thought leader depending on who you ask. (I hope you can tell I’m laughing as I type that.) I guess I’m out here empathizing with sprayable skincare and the multitudes they contain.
The reason these labels are so confusing is because there’s no Board of Cosmetics determining which spray is actually an essence and which is actually a toner. It’s every brand and every man for themself which means that, unfortunately, we have to be proactive consumers. All of these products require deeper research and an understanding of your unique skincare needs in order to determine which is right for you. I know — labor.
Let’s get serious: are any of these necessary?
I completely defer to Smith:
“There’s no universal ‘must-have’ when it comes to these products—it’s about paying attention to your skin and working with an expert to find what makes the most sense for you. Personally, I like toners with a light AHA for aging concerns and BHA for clogged or congested skin. My go-to recommendation, though, is incorporating facial mists throughout the day to maintain hydration, especially in dry environments.”
“When choosing products, look for hydrating ingredients and be mindful of common irritants. I always suggest avoiding witch hazel, which is found in a lot of toners, and being cautious with fragrance, as it can be sensitizing over time.”
Kristyn’s Picks:
Allies of Skin Molecular Saviour Probiotics Treatment Mist: because of the aloe.
Environ Vita-Peptide Toner: this one is more like an essence, and I love how hydrating it is. It’s full of anti-aging peptides.
Environ Botanical Infused Moisturizing Toner: also a good one because it has some lactic and great hydrating botanicals, making it very well balanced.
Prequel Half + Half Fluid Moisturizer: this is a good one to start with if you’re looking for something hybrid that works for all skin types.
My Picks:
The first step in my current routine is this Avène Thermal Spring Water. It looks like a can of hairspray, but it feels so soothing, and I like to think it’s akin to putting electrolytes on my face. Sometimes I spray it, pat it in, and go red light robot mode so it penetrates deeper.
It’s TikTok-Viral for a reason. The Tower 28 SOS Spray is mandatory if you’re prone to any sort of inflammation or skin irritation. I keep it in my bag and use it after a workout if I’m not going directly home to wash my face after.
If you’re cool with a little bit of floral, the Monastery x Coppola Hideaways Hydrating Floral Essence is beautiful. Kristen May Lee said she’d bring it to a deserted island with her.
I keep Eadem’s new Mami Wata in my medicine cabinet because it looks pretty. I’m going to try it out shortly…
That’s all for now. A huge thank you to Kristyn for bestowing us with her knowledge (find her at Practise in NYC!). Feel free to let me know what you’re spraying in the comments, or reply to this email with Plant Based requests.
This is my favorite compliment to receive. It makes me feel like I’m good at my job.
It’s so strangely formal for me to refer to Kristyn by her last name but nevertheless I am beholden to the great AP style gods.
Byrdie — What Experts Say About Face Toners and if You Actually Need to Use One, Maya Allen, 2024
Byrdie — Toner vs. Essence: We Break Down the Differences, Dacy Knight, 2022
Face Fog by Calling Beauty is hands down THE best face mist!!
Swedish skincarre brand Mantle has a mist called The Must Mist and sadly I don't currently have it on rotation in my bathroom, but I looooove the way it feels on my skin.